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VincentJames

Can I use 115 VAC or 24 VDC to Power on MR-J3-70T Servo Amplifier

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Hi guys,

I have a Mitsubishi AC servo amplifier [MR-J3-70T w/ option unit MR-J3-D01]

It is currently not physically connected to any motor or device so their is no load.

I only want to power the amplifier on so I can connect to my computer to view and load parameters using MR Configurator2.

Can I use 115 VAC or 24 VDC connection to just power the amplifier on so I can communicate with my software via mini usb cable?

If it is possible to use either 115 VAC or 24 VDC power supply, which cables do I need to connect and to where?

Attached is the wiring diagram for the servo amplifier I have.

Thanks for your help and time!

servo amp.PNG

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Under 170V AC it should not power up at all.

24VDC is only for the I/O signals. 

You need the AC power on L11, L21 to run the internal circuit.

Edited by glavanov

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once, by accident, i supplied 5VDC to CN2 encoder connector of a MR-J3-B. that was enough for the CPU to boot, and flash with alarm 16. USB was working too.

i doubt about MR-J3-D01 though...

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мат с пешкой снова! :-)

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Thanks for the reply guys. That's what I was afraid of.

What if I use a step up transformer to take incoming 110v from wall outlet to the transformer and output 220v from transformer to servo amplifier?

Is their a reason why the AC power needs to be on L11 and L21 and not L1 and L2?

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check schematics... AC need to be on both of them...

L11/L21 is used to power the logic portion of the drive (low power, used to boot up and run control circuitry). this portion is normally powered continuously and makes it possible to do a diagnostics etc even if MC (Master Control) is off. normally this is converted to some low DC voltage such as 24C,12V, 5V, 3.3V and low current (just for powering IO, encoder and CPU controlling the IGBTs)

L1/L2 is supplying high power section (intermediate bus, inverter power stage, motor) and can be switched off for safety reason, for example if there is an emergency stop. in other words, this circuit is powered intermittently. this is converted to high voltage DC bus, high current something like 300VDC, several amps. if this is disabled (by MC) then motor is not able to run even if control circuitry is telling it to run at ludicrous speed. 

 

red lines are indicating high current conductors (transferring power to motor).

everything else is quite low current. 

also MC is highlighted in yellow. top branch is typical cat1 start/stop circuit. it is just an example.

modern safety often uses redundant circuits (Cat3/Cat4) but this is determined in safety review of the application.

MR-J3.jpg

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Hi panic,

Thank you for your feedback. I do see in the schematic that L11/L21 is tied into L1/L2, but for the purpose of what I am trying to achieve, I only want to power the amplifier on at my house.

I live in the US and have a 110VAC power outlets in my home. The amplifier will not be connected to any motor or have any load on it. Just want to power it on so I can connect to my computer to view and load parameters using mr configurator2.

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Typical U.S. house wiring is 120V on normal outlets, but 240V on dryers and ranges and heating/cooling circuits.  Consider buying a dryer pigtail and hijacking that circuit.  If you will do much of this sort of thing, consider putting in a dedicated plug.  I did that in my garage for a stick welder.

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Hi pturmel,

I like your idea and it seems easy enough. My dryer outlet is a 3 prong connection.

If I buy a 3 prong pigtail, it looks to have a white, black and red wire which I believe would be labeled as W, X, Y respectively.

Would I just need to connect the black wire to L1, the red to L2 and the white to neutral on the amplifier in this case?

cable1.PNG

cable.PNG

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Yes, that's it.  But L11 and L21 instead of L1 and L2.

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Also note that modern homes are all 4-prong, not 3-prong, IIRC.  Receptacle type 14-30R.  (Plug 14-30P.)  If you put in a dedicated one, I recommend the 4-wire.

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Thanks for confirming. My home is a bit older which is probably why it has a 3-prong, but I'll consider a 4-prong if I decide to upgrade.

Last question concerning the wiring diagram.

When I connect the wires to L11, L21 and N, does it matter if neutral is on a different connector than L11 and L21 as shown below?

Just to confirm, there will be no wires connected to L1 or L2 either, correct?

wire.PNG

Edited by VincentJames

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1 hour ago, VincentJames said:

When I connect the wires to L11, L21 and N,...

Can you not simply follow the documentation and wire circuit as shown? Because it shows nothing connected to N terminal.

And yes, you will NEED to connect power to L1/L2 as well if you want the motor to move. Without power on L1/L2 drive will boot but it will show fault.

 

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39 minutes ago, panic mode said:

you will NEED to connect power to L1/L2

He's playing with the amplifier at home with no motor.

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thanks, i missed that part  :-D

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Back in the days when MR-JE series was fresh new on the market.. the boss brought one MR-JE-70A

We all started reading the manual section for I/O signals, sink/source and so on... we had FX PLC with the wrong outputs (Source)...

No one paid attention to power connections 1 or 3 phase 200-240VAC... for 1 phase L1 and L3.

Somеone connected R,S,T 380VAC to L1, L2 and L3... it was "FOURTH OF JULY" and black hole on the circuit board.

Also the screw terminal MR-TB50 (the long black one with the transperant lid for the I/O cardboard label) and the label was inserted upside down

The result was +24V on one of the encoder outputs(line driver) and second smoke wave. :kewl: We almost lost our jobs that day...

Since then i always read the manuals carefully with all the notes and small paragraphs!

Hundreds of servos since then without headaches

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glavanov,

lol nice story. That's exactly what I am hoping to avoid with my amplifier. I don't want to fry any boards by wiring it up incorrectly since I am trying to power it in a unconventional method.

I have read the manual, but there is nothing about how to power the amplifier on by itself from what I read.

That's the confusing part to me regarding the wiring is that the wiring schematic shows nothing connected to N terminal, but the schematic is also representative of the amplifier connected to a motor, which I am not doing. Just need to supply power to the amplifier without burning it out.

pturmel has given me a great idea to use a dryer pigtail that will give me 240 VAC to the amplifier, but I just want to confirm what terminals I should connect to.

It sounds like I just need to connect to L11 and L21 for my hot lines to the amplifier. I am just not sure if the third wire in my dryer pigtail should be connected to the N terminal or not.

Could someone please confirm this part for me?

Edited by VincentJames

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I don't think connecting N would make any difference but it is not used in circuit shown. Question is if the N terminal is even connected to anything at all (internally). Personally i would not bother, it it was needed, manual would show it....

 

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I have 8 pcs Mr-J3-20A supplyed with 220VAC single phase connected to L1/L11. Negative wire to L2/ L21. Leav N terminal alone! It have no relation with input power at all.

The only diff is that J3_T have CC-link communication and Built in positioning function. 

Keep in the specs and you should be FINE! Section 1.2 from here: https://dl.mitsubishielectric.com/dl/fa/document/manual/servo/sh030058/sh030058h.pdf

J3_Specz.jpg.7bf0d5622be5522640ee499794e

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Perfect! Thanks a lot for the info and help guys.

I will leave the N terminal alone.

This is the cable I plan to use to connect at home to my amplifier using my dryer outlet as power supply since my dryer outlet is a 3-prong outlet.

I will just connect the red and black wires to L11 and L21 and tape off the white wire so it is not used.

cable1.PNG

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NEMA 10-30 is not grounded. it's been deemed a hazard and replaced by 14-30 long ago. there are adapters or retrofit sets for this like this to add ground connection. note that NR-J3 calls for ground to be connected.(PE = Protective Earth).

https://www.evseadapters.com/products/nema-10-30p-to-14-30r-dryer-adapter/

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Thank you for the info panic. 

I am sorry for my many questions. Just want to make sure I understand everything before I even attempt to power the amp on.

I think I am good to go now!

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