QUOTE (Mick Gerdes @ Aug 26 2009, 07:28 AM)

I know this is a bit off track for this site but any advice would be helpfull.
I have a 312amp motor on a centrifical compressor. It is controlled by a smc softstarter. It has a very high enercia load and takes quite a long time to start. It pulls 2860amps for 2sec ,then 1500amps for 10 sec, then 2600amps for 1 sec when the starter applies full voltage. The supply fuse is a TTM500 HRC. On a time vers current graph it shows that the fuse can only hold approx 3000amps for 5sec. What i thinks is happening is that over a period of time these fuses are degrading and failing. The 3 fuses have blown one after the other ie a ,b,c over approx 1.5 years use. This has happened only in the last 2 months. Even if the fuse can handle the current can they fail like this? Going to a larger fuse will give another 5 sec or so(for a 630amp fuse) however the cable,main isolator(500amp) and main feed are not large enough. Would a better option be to install a circuit breaker with adjustements to get passed this high starting currents?
First, based on your numbers, it sounds like you are starting the compressor under load. Or not waiting the 10-30 minutes that it takes for all the oil to drain when you do have to restart after say a power failure. When you start up, it is extremely important to leave the inlet damper closed and/or the turn screw wide open (if you have one), and to wait for the oil to drain back into the sump. If you don't do this, you will have some very nasty startup loads and you will almost always trip whatever you have for protection. On shutdown, normal practice is to always unload the compressor first. Of course this requires trained people who can follow directions. If they can't follow air compressor manufacturer's directions, then let them suffer with further downtime.
It sounds like there's something extremely wrong with your soft starter. There should NOT be a jump in current when the contactor pulls in. Usually you only engage the contactor after 20-30 seconds...after the motor is definitely fully running. It sounds like you might have something wrong (blown SCR? Miswiring?). Instead of timed startup, why don't you use current limiting mode in the soft start? That will extend out the startup time to whatever is necessary to maintain a reasonable starting current such as 150% of FLA (468 A). You would never see the starting currents at that point since you are well within the 175% range of a current limiting fuse. If you are tripping the overload, it's because you didn't set it correctly for the application (air compressors are definitely a class 30 trips).
Unlike circuit breakers, you can't just arbitrarily set your fuses up higher and higher and higher. In fact it already sounds like you are running outside the limits of the motor and I'm surprised you aren't experiencing winding damage (which also probably corresponds to blown fuses since the soft start isn't programmed to do it's job of restricting startup current, and the overloads if they exist at all are similarly disabled). Get an AB rep in your shop because the SMC unit is obviously screwed up in terms of settings. And if the current settings are what the AB rep recommends, find another one or get AB on the phone. Something's not right here. You don't have to stick with the SMC-1 either. You can often upgrade to the newer ones while leaving the existing unit in place. I have very little experience with the SMC-(not 2, 3, flex, etc.). It might be due for an upgrade if the performance is as lousy as you describe.
Fuses do NOT degrade over time as far as the active device at least with those made within the last 20 years. I have seen a few of them that might possibly have failed that were made in the 1970's because the end caps got loose but that's the only exception I can think of. The various "trip indicator" devices are known to failure, however. What usually gets them is if you have surges/spikes and incorrect settings.
On the circuit breaker side, at the size you are buying though, you can easily get an electronic circuit breaker such as a GE Spectra breaker. If you get the fancier one, you can set up a very high instantaneous trip (and these babies are fast...1/4 cycle, same as a fuse), a short time trip, and a long time trip. And you can dial in all the curves to match exactly. From your coordination curve, it should be very easy to match both the protection needed for the cable and the vagaries of the motor. I suggest you start by drawing the curves and then matching up to the devices in this case especially. Also, all the circuit breaker and/or fuse companies can run the curves for you and give recommendations. Right now as a minimum, you need to get the motor safe operating area and the cable safe operating area.
NEC's rules on fuses are absolute. There are no arguments when it comes to dual element fuses. I've had fuse manufacturers try to push me to rate them below NEC limits (175%) but never above. With circuit breakers you have that extra leeway because in the simple thermal-magnetic world, they really offer little to any protection because they aren't designed to deal with motor starting currents. With electronic trip units on CB's, they are much more reliable and can be set to dial in almost any setting (again, remembering the NEC specifications as well as the wiring and motor limits). In short, you can do things with them that you simply can't do with an "ordinary" circuit breaker and they work better than "ordinary" ones. They also tend to be smaller and less expensive than a large molded case thermal-magnetic unit or the old dash pot trip units on draw outs. I would use them everywhere if it wasn't for the fact that below a certain size, the pricing makes them unattractive.
I've also found that I've had to pretty much ban Siemens motors. When it comes to starting currents, their energy efficient motors simply don't meet NEMA rules. You can't start them in many cases while simultaneously meeting NEC rules, and the manufacturer won't give me straight answers to straight questions.
Finally, at the currents you are talking about, you would be better off with a medium voltage setup. Of course the conversion will probably cost you in excess of $50K so I'm not recommending retrofit.