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Gamble

DIN Rail Cutters

15 posts in this topic

Does anyone have suggestion for DIN rail cutters? http://www.dinrail.com/ This one is pretty nice, but you have to change dies for different sizes of rail. Also we use a lot of 15mm rail, and they don't have a die for that size. http://www.dinrailwiringduct.com/servlet/the-255/DIN,-rail,-cutter,-DIN/Detail This one is a nicer and still not crazy expensive. I wish the website had better pictures so you could really see the product. Iboco sells a cutter as well but it is priced around $1200.

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Me personally, I have never seen the value of DIN RAIL cutters in general. This works great: http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/dewalt/products/D28700.asp Little bit of a buff on a buffing wheel and you are good to go.

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Can't say I have ever seen the value of a DIN rail cutter either, does anyone have one? I have a nice light weight band saw that does a good job of cutting it. $50 used.

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A hacksaw + a little elbow grease has always served me just fine. Especially for aluminum din rail...that stuff cuts like butter with a 32tpi blade. For steel/stainless, I will use the shop chop saw and bench grinder buffer wheel to knock off the "flash" if I am feeling lazy or I have a bunch of rails to cut. The hacksaw generates a much prettier finish though, no heat or discoloration, no sharp edges... Most of my projects are less than a half dozen cuts, though. A bandsaw is ideal, and when available in the shop, that's what I'll use, but I hadn't thought of a port-a-band. If I had to build a lot of panels, I would go that route. Now, if I worked in a panel building shop, the pinch type cutter like the link in the first post would be a worthy investment...should pay for itself in time savings after perhaps a hundred cuts. Edited by OkiePC

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I use a my bandsaw. I have cut rate slow so all I have to do is set my length and start the saw. It cuts while I am laying out wire duct. A hacksaw or port-o-band when out in the field. OK I am going to start a new thread for wire duct cutters. Edited by JeffKiper

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Just a side note, I haven't used aluminum DIN rail since this thread http://forums.mrplc.com/index.php?showtopic=9218

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and you can cut so many other things with it.....

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Hacksaw for cutting DIN on 98% of time If I had to heaps, then a drop saw I don't use Aluminum DIN as it is more expensive then the steel DIN Note on corrosion - Aluminum and mild steel are close to each other on the Galvanic chart - so no real corrosion problems. Regards conductivity - Here is the resistivity of of some metals - Aluminum has a higher conductivity then steel (3.5 x 10^7 S/m), therefore a better conductor.... High voltage cables are Aluminum cause cheaper then copper - not steel RESIST. COND. SOURCE ohm-m SIEMENS/m % IACS CODE MATERIAL 1.611E-07 6.206E+06 10.70 1 Steel, Cast 5.945E-07 1.682E+06 2.90 1 Steel, High Alloy 6.897E-07 1.450E+06 2.50 1 Steel, 304 Stainless 6.897E-07 1.450E+06 2.50 2 Steel, 304 Stainless 7.184E-07 1.392E+06 2.40 1 Steel, 347 Stainless 7.184E-07 1.392E+06 2.40 2 Zircaloy - 2 7.496E-07 1.334E+06 2.30 1 Steel, 316 Stainless Material ? [?·m] at 20 °C ? [s/m] at 20 °C Temperature coefficient[note 1] [K?1] Reference Silver 1.59×10?8 6.30×107 0.0038 [1][2] Copper 1.68×10?8 5.96 × 107 0.0039 [2] Annealed Copper 5.80 × 107 Gold 2.44×10?8 4.52 × 107 0.0034 [1] Aluminium 2.82×10?8 3.5 × 107 0.0039 [1]

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I'm hardly an expert on metallurgy, so why do aluminum body cars bolted to steel frames corrode so bad at the connection point?

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Corrosion can be related to a number of things .... What are the bolts made of ? Mild steel ? or a plated type of bolt ? Or if welded, what was the rod composed of ? ie if any carbon in the rod Aluminum will be the sacrificial metal at the joint. Point to note - if you had a mild steel mounting plate (for a panel) and you mark out with a pencil - the pencil contains carbon - therefore you have created a galvonic connection with mild steel and carbon and the mild steel plate will be the sacrificial metal.. (It does not bother me because the corrosion would be negligible) However, In airplanes manufacture/maintenance, pencils are not used to mark any of the metal/ alloy for this very reason.... The mild steel to Aluminum will result in some corrosion but will depend on the make up of the steel...and the environment in which the two metals are in. (a lot of moisture/ chemicals/ salts etc which can expedite the process.) I found a better chart.... When two metals are in contact in the presence of moisture, their locations within the series indicate the risk of corrosion due to the flow of electric current between them. The closer the two metals on the list, the less the difference in electrical potential, and the less the risk of corrosion. The further apart the two materials on the list, the greater the risk of corrosion. The following are some guidelines for working with dissimilar metals and interpreting the galvanic series. With quantified potential differences between metals, the galvanic series can also be used to estimate the compatibility of different metals under varying environmental conditions using the following rules of thumb: In coastal, very high humidity, or other harsh environments, galvanic metal pairs should be limited to those with a potential difference no greater than 0.15 volts.In moderate environments, metal pairs should have a potential difference no greater than 0.25 volts.In environments with controlled humidity and temperature, potential differences as great as 0.50 volts may be acceptable. For example, consider the aluminum bronze alloy group. In a harsh environment, you may opt to limit metals to be used in contact with this alloy group to other bronze alloys, brasses of various types, copper, tin, and 400 series stainless steel. On the other hand, in a controlled environment, aluminum bronze might safely be combined with any other metal listed on the chart, with the exception of zinc and galvanized steel. Based on these rules of thumb, metals listed in the chart have been color-coded into groups that fall within potential difference ranges of roughly 0.20 volts. Metals within each of these groups may be considered least corrosion prone when used together in normal conditions. This really highlights why you should not use mild steel bolts and worse still Gal plated bolts/nuts with stainless steel. However, you can use Nickel Plated Brass with Stainless..... (just do not break the coating. of the nickel plate) It also shows how a boat made of aluminum will use zinc as a sacrificial metal to prevent corrosion. You only have to look at your own Statue of Liberty where regular maintenance in the 1980s showed that galvanic corrosion had taken place between the outer copper skin and the wrought iron support structure. The problem had been anticipated when the structure was built in the 1880s, the insulation of shellac between the two metals failed over a period of time and resulted in rusting of the iron supports. The renovation replaced the original insulation with PTFE (ie TEFLON).

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All you have to do is push his start button and look what you get.

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We manufacture the Din Rail utter shown in attached photo and export to USA/UK market. Please contact us on www.trishulgroup.com

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I bought DIN rail and wire duct cutters when I was doing a huge job. Money well spent. I can layout duct and rail super quick. My helpers started out using hacksaws. The edges always looked like they where cut with a hacksaw and someone tried to clean them up. My local supply house has a DIN cutter and I used it a handfull of times. I was in another panel shop and they where cutting rail like mad men.

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It does well for DIN rail and wireduct cover up to 60mm: http://www.mcmaster.com/#24675a31ac/=ri5a00

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